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Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Langkawi is big enough for all of us

Attracting more than 2 million tourists a year, Langkawi has become one of the main destination magnets in Malaysia. There is much to love about this archipelago of 99 islands - 104 at low tide, according to some sources - thanks to its duty-free shopping status (cheap beer and chocolates!), the UNESCO Geopark recognition for its unique geological heritage, and the fascinating legends of how the whole island came to be.
But what if you didn't want to jostle with the crowds at Pantai Cenang, Langkawi's most famous stretch of beach? Or swim with schools of fish - and snorkelers - at Pulau Payar, the island's popular marine park? Or queue up for the cable car ride up Gunung Mat Cincang?

Fortunately, Langkawi is big enough for all of us, and there are places where you can enjoy the scenic landscapes and peaceful island life without elbowing for space with a fellow camera-toting tourist:

Pantai Pasir Tengkorak


7 to 11 am: Early morning dip at Pantai Pasir Tengkorak
Start off your day with an early morning dip at the beach - and we don't mean Pantai Cenang (which must be said, though, is best enjoyed at sunset and beyond, despite the crowd!). Drive along the road towards Datai Bay to reach Pantai Pasir Tengkorak (loosely translated into The Beach of Skulls). Like a pirate's den, this small stretch of beach, flanked on either side by rocky boulders, is eerily quiet in the early hours of the morning. 

The waves are beautiful, the beach is soft and sandy, and the entire place is shaded by lush trees like umbrellas overhead. The area has some wakaf or wooden gazebos to relax in, and there are restroom and bathing facilities as well. Have a breakfast picnic, explore the rock pools and discover some really weird-looking sea creatures, swim in the sea...and leave by 11:00 am when the first bus-loads of tourists usually arrive!

11 am to 12 pm: Art education
Before you leave the area, though, pop by the Ibrahim Hussein Museum and Cultural Foundation (http://ihmcf.org) just next door for an arty-farty afternoon tour of the spacious gallery. The building itself commands beautiful views of the Andaman Sea, thanks to its perch on higher ground just by the sea. Featuring the art works of one of Malaysia's iconic artists, the late Ibrahim Hussein, the gallery offers visitors a quiet and peaceful setting in which to appreciate the beautiful art works and artistic vision of one of Malaysia's own. His huge works capture historic moments - the September 11 bombings, the Hong Kong handover; his peace messages - "One day man will rule with tenderness"; and significant people who have touched his life - Aung San Su Kyi, the Bandit Queen, and his very own muse, his wife, Sim.

Temple Tree Langkawi


12 to 3 pm: Lunch and heritage tour
Enjoy a leisurely lunch at Bon Ton Resort's Nam Restaurant  http://www.bontonresort.com by a freshwater lagoon fringed with coconut trees. 

As you put in your lunch order, enquire about a guided tour of their latest luxury boutique resort, Temple Tree (http://www.templetree.com.my). Usually reserved only for in-house guests, the tour does oblige walk-in visitors on a walk-through of the Temple Tree collection of authentic antique homes that range in age between 70 and 110 years old. 

The collection within the property includes a double story Chinese farmhouse from Johor, a black and white Malay house from Negeri Sembilan, and colonial bungalows and estate homes from various parts of Malaysia. Each house reveals beautiful traditional architecture with a mix of modern and vintage chic interiors, and fascinating stories of its previous occupants and history.


Buffalo Park Langkawi


3 to 4:30 pm: Tea with the buffaloes
Langkawi has breath-taking views of the rainforest, the mountains and the countryside. One of the best ways to take it all in is with a drive through the quiet countryside roads of Kampung Nyior Chabang. Coconut groves, paddy fields, the Gunung Raya and Gunung Mat Cincang peaks and the lush rainforest contribute to this scenic kampong landscape. 

You can stop for tea and ice creams at Buffalo Park (www.buffaloparklangkawi.com), an agrotourist farm and café run by the Veterinary Services Department of Langkawi. The Buffalo Park rears over 100 Murrah and swamp buffaloes for milk production, and produces its own flavoured milk, yoghurt, ice cream and cheese, which is served to guests at a little outdoor café. Visitors can even try buffalo rides or watch the process of making mozzarella.


Dr Ghani Herbal Walk

4:30 - 6:30 pm: A walk in the garden
End your evening with a private tour of Dr. Ghani's herbal home garden (herbwalk@herwalk-langkawi.com). Dr. Ghani is a medical practitioner who is passionate about the natural healing properties of local plants and herbs. His home garden has a collection of more than 500 different species of medicinal plants and herbs. 

During the two-hour tour, Dr. Ghani himself briefs visitors about natural healing, the medicinal properties of certain plants and the benefits of each. As a treat, guests are served local snacks in a traditional wooden balai at the end of the tour.